Coudre ma robe de fête * Holiday dressmaking

L’année dernière j’ai raté l’occasion de coudre une robe pour le temps des fêtes en velours. Du coup cette année, c’était le projet que je souhaitais accomplir avant le nouvel an. Quand Caroline de Blackbird fabrics a ajouté plusieurs tissus en velours dans sa boutique, j’ai choisi ce velours couleur olive et un autre, argenté. Vous pouvez voir sur mon Instagram qu’avec ce dernier, j’ai déjà cousu un body qui attend d’être blogué (…bientôt!!).

Dès la mi-novembre j’avais déjà mon tissu, mais pas encore de patron. Le velours est si beau, de tellement de façons et ce ne sont pas les patrons sympas qui manquent pour nous guider. J’avais une idée assez précise sur la robe que je voulais, ce qui m’empêchait de me décider sur un projet. Je voulais certes une robe festive et de nuit, mais qui puisse aussi se porter pour d’autres occasions. Depuis que je couds mes propres vêtements, il est très important pour moi de pouvoir porter ce que je couds souvent. J’ai fini par trouver quelque chose qui répondait à mes pensées: le modèle 118 dans Burda Style de Décembre.

Vu que je n’avais pas beaucoup d’expérience avec les patron Burda et que je n’ai pas toujours entendus que des compliments sur ces patrons, j’ai longtemps hésité avant de le prendre. Mais, au final, après avoir travailler dessus, il n’était pas trop compliqué. C’est vrai que si j’avais cousu ce patron l’année dernière, avec moins d’expérience de couture, il m’aurait sans doute paru très exigeant. Mais là, pour cette robe, tout est allé plutôt bien. Je n’ai presque rien changé à part la longueur de l’ourlet et j’ai laissé de côté le zip invisible: absolument aucun besoin, vue l’élasticité du tissu. J’ai également ajouté une fente devant.

Le velours stretch ne fut finalement pas si difficile à coudre que je l’aurais craint. Néanmoins, je n’ai pas réussi à raccorder exactement les coutures, par exemple les pinces dans le dos entre le corsage et la jupe. Heureusement le tombé du tissu cache ces petites erreurs. Au final, c’était un projet sympa, pour un résultat vraiment satisfaisant–j’ai hâte de la porter!

 

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Last year I missed the chance to sew a velvet holiday dress. So, this year, it was the one project I really wanted to accomplish before the New Year. When Caroline at Blackbird Fabrics stocked some stunning stretch velvet, I chose a few meters of her olive velvet, and some of the silver, too, which has already been transformed into a hacked body suit. It already briefly appeared on Instagram and will soon be blogged!

I had my fabric by mid November, but not the pattern. Velvet is gorgeous and there is no lack of great patterns to use. However, as I had a very precise idea of what I wanted, I struggled committing to a pattern. I wanted a fun, festive going-out dress, but one that could be worn at other times, as well. Since I began sewing my own clothes, it has become important that I get a lot of wear out of what I make. I ended up finding something similar to my thoughts in the Burda Style December issue, model 118.

Because I had no experience with Burda patterns, and had not heard the most encouraging words about their instructions, I hesitated before settling on this pattern. After everything, though, all was well. No steps were too complicated in making this dress, but if I had tried a year ago with less experience, I think I would have said otherwise. I made hardly any adjustments, and only removed the invisible zipper (there was no need with the fabrics elasticity) and I added the slit in the front skirt.

Although sewing the stretch velvet was not nearly as difficult as I expected, I certainly did not master this fabric. Most of my seams and darts do not line up perfectly, and thankfully the dark fabrics hides those mistakes! Overall, this project was fun and satisfying–can’t wait to wear it out!

6 thoughts on “Coudre ma robe de fête * Holiday dressmaking

  1. I love everything about this dress! The choice of pattern is superb it the dress has a casual beauty about it.

    Your in house photographer has taken a great range of shots.

    Do you have any tips on working with velvet?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I was hoping there would be something casual about this dress, despite some of its obvious “fancy” tones. My hope is to be confident enough to wear it to lots of occasions. One of its best qualities is how comfortable it is. The stretch velvet is so snuggly!

      As for tips, it’s important to cut every piece separately, and not two at a time. I think this helped with precision. Another suggestion would be to sew slowly, especially where seams meet. I didn’t figure this out until sewing the last matching seam. I would line darts up perfectly only to have them shift while sewing. I thought I had made some cutting or marking problem, but really I was just sewing too quickly which made the seams slip a bit. Otherwise things were pretty smooth! Nothing more troubling than any typically touchy knit fabric.

      Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you!!! I really hesitated in choosing the right color for this dress, since Blackbird fabrics had so many wonderful velvets for sale! But, I can never say “no” to a good green! One of my favorite parts of sewing my own clothes is being able to make garments in colors that are hard to find in stores. 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

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