High-Rise Morgan Jeans, a foundation for spring sewing.

I flutter back and forth between extremes on a few issues, and among them are my opinions on jeans and capsule wardrobes. I always, simultaneously, love and hate them.

img_1968

Both subjects provoke a collision between fantasy and reality: what do I want to wear vs what I actually wear vs what I enjoy making. This equation can produce a variety of responses and sewing philosophies. Both Shauni and Katie have recently posted on how they think about capsules in particular, so I know I am not the only one who is appealed and repelled by wardrobe planning perfection.

img_1993

Yet, there is something about owning a capsule wardrobe that remains appealing. I’d say I’m certainly seduced by the promise of having *perfect* (to me) clothes that work together seamlessly. On the other hand life’s complicated and a capsule wardrobe only really exists as an ensemble in the few Instagram photos you’ll post about it. Having learned that creating a capsule plan is essentially a magic trick to make hours disappear in one swoop, I’ve tried to find a balance between practical and artistic sewing. The first step in that directions is understanding that I am not a minimalist–a hard thing to hear, at first, for anyone admiring the sleek capsule appeal. They always seem to be geared towards minimalist styles! Over time, I realized my “capsule” was not light grey or black button downs and slacks, it was a gang of puffy sleeved shirts, with some kind of anchor.

img_2050

This is wear jeans comes in. Theoretically I’d never wear jeans, that’s what I tell myself. But, I also know that is very untrue. So when imagining a Spring/Summer collection (instead of a capsule!) of garments I’d truly like to wear or make, I knew jeans, according to my lifestyle, would be one of the first things to check of a list. But, I knew they’d need to have something specific about them to fall in line with my increasingly selective tastes.

 

So what do I love? Light blue high-waisted jeans, yes the old kind, yes the now trendy kind. I was set on a mission to make them, and a mission it was.

Claissic_jeans

Having recently allowed myself to go slower with my projects than before (since I’m also short on sewing times these days), and trying to capture something of that handmade capsule wardrobe spirit, I knew it’d be worth it if I remained focused on the design I was trying for. I started with the Closet Case Morgan jeans, and although my goal seemed simple–just make them high-rise–there were so many bumps along the way. Fitting them was annoying (and left something to be desired at the end). My beautiful denim stretched in the wash. My top stitching thread nearly destroyed my machine. I didn’t place the buttons close enough to the edge of the fly, which resulted in a gap, you’ll notice, and that I try to be ok with but know I will fix within the next week. You see what I mean…

img_2015

The biggest problem, though, was probably that I realized I find jeans sewing preparation boring. Although my previous handmade jeans were among my most worn items, something about sewing them bums me out. Maybe this is because jeans sewing, to me, feels like work instead of play. Yet, wearing them after the fact is just the opposite–I feel fun and stylish and even a little silly since the high-rise boyfriend jean style really is its own brand of “I will wear what I want!”

img_2063

I’m not sure where the balance falls on jeans making, nor why I feel compelled to make them while I am grouchy about it. Maybe sometimes we do sew for the outcome rather than the process. All in all, my grouchiness didn’t prevent me from getting a solid personalized pattern and a fun pair of jeans at the end. I’d even say I feel relieved to have this “base” garment as a step forward into my spring sewing, something I can dress up with the next colorful handmade separates I hope to mix them up with. On the tail end of this project which marks the first steps of a news season (something we’re so sensitive to in Montreal!), I’m wondering if the draw to a capsule is not really fantasy of minimalist living, but the drive to understand personal, wearable style, and to ultimately create meaningful, flexible, and regularly enjoyed handmade garments. I’ll get back to you on that. 😉

 

5 thoughts on “High-Rise Morgan Jeans, a foundation for spring sewing.

  1. I love your musings here! I, also, am not a minimalist, however unfashionable that admission may be.

    I’ve actually really enjoyed the process of jeans-making in the past—sometimes more than I enjoy wearing the finished project! But having a separate machine that can handle topstitching thread is a big factor in that and when I haven’t had that they are much less fun. 😂

    Like

  2. I also find that making pants is all about the end product. I do not enjoy the process even if they are a tnt and are already fitted. I am a minimalist in all aspects of my life except sewing. Maybe because it’s the only thing that I am really passionate about.

    Like

  3. First of all, your jeans look great! maybe the nice thing about being a non-jeans wearer is that you’ll only ever have to have one pair in rotation at any given time.

    I also appreciate your thoughts on the capsule wardrobe. I really think you’re on to something here, where not everyone’s capsule wardrobe has to be mostly basics. Yours can (and should!) be ruffle tops and pencil skirts, as is true to you. That said, I don’t think there should be a point of guilt in having more clothes than a 10×10. I’ve just finished living somewhat nomadically for the last two years and as a side effect have been living with a 10-15 piece wardrobe. Quite frankly, it sucks, and it doesn’t bring me any joy (it might actually be the antithesis of joy). But I’m not a minimalist, and it’s silly to pretend to be one in order to fit into trends. I even have an inkling that most of the people who are vocally pro-capsule are merely attracted to the novelty of it, and wouldn’t actually want to live it for an extended period of time, especially since, if you’re rotating clothing out of your wardrobe every season and replacing it with new, on-trend pieces, you’re still contributing to the waste of the garment industry, no matter how “capsule” your wardrobe is.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Totally admiring your efforts with jean sewing! I bought the jean fitting course for the Gingers to get going, but like you, the prep and gearing up for them doesn’t really excite me. I’m waiting to feel in the mood for some really technical making…
    And I’m totally cheering you on at that last bit: “I’m wondering if the draw to a capsule is not really fantasy of minimalist living, but the drive to understand personal, wearable style, and to ultimately create meaningful, flexible, and regularly enjoyed handmade garments.” I’m never going to be minimal, and by capsule, I always imagined a very large capsule stuffed to the brim haha. I guess like you, I’m seeking out my personal style and things that will fit together more easily.
    xx

    Like

  5. Thanks for your brilliant post! Your jeans look great! You said just about everything I have been too shy to speak up about publicly. I love the outcome of my Morgans now that I slogged through the few tweaks to get the fit right. I paid for Heather Lou’s video course and so glad I did! I’ve made 10 pair jeans of various colors and fabric weights and love all but the first two. While I don’t love the sewing process with a passion I certainly love the outcomes, usually. I’m going to make some Morgans shorts for summer. That pattern will keep me going for a long time and it’s the only pants style I like. It’s practical. Trousers don’t do it for me due to the silly pocket styles. Everything falls out of the vertical slot pockets. Nuff said! I tried a blouse pattern and discovered that the making process was unpleasant enough to turn me off the project. Then it occurred to me that I’m just not a blouse kind of gal. T shirts are my all time fave. I have no overlocker so buy my tees. I don’t feel guilty about that. I wash all my jeans and tees by hand and line dry them so they will last a very long time. I’m also not a capsulist. Not my thing.
    Though my sewing is more of a necessity than a passion I do appreciate how it gives me complete control over my wardrobe staples: jeans and skirts. The reward is enormous for my patience and hard work at the sewing table. I’ve even learned a few very valuable skills such as pattern adjusting and hacking. So worth it! I love how your jeans turned out and how you’ve expressed your experiences and feelings about the sewing work and the capsule concept. I’m thrilled that I came across your blog. Looking forward to reading more posts.

    Like

Leave a comment